For a gal who has, admittedly, sort of ignored nature as of late (cold weather? meh.) it was nice to get out into a little bit of fresh air. I am sure most of you are aware of this little fact: Naples is a dirty city. There are trash piles on the sides of the road. Recycling is hit-or-miss, and many people don't bother. There isn't a good city infrastructure here and with all the stray animals, there aren't facilities to pick them off the roads when they inevitably get hit by cars. Farmers burn their fields several times a year, and for lack of alternative places to put the trash, people burn that too. For reasons far too complicated to explain (and because I don't know enough about it to say), I won't go into why things are the way they are here in that regard, but everyone I know here (especially Neapolitans) hate the situation. Everyone... And no one... Is to blame.
Anyway, for that reason, it was so great to visit a peaceful little haven in the midst of busy Napoli. The lake is a convenient circular shape (as it is a volcanic crater), and is surrounded by hills and vineyards that have existed here since before WWI. These old vineyards and the vines that grow the coveted wine are treasured - the only way to get a bottle is to show up and visit yourself, and while you're at it get to know the owners and kids. There are old Roman ruins here, too, dating back to who-knows-when.
From what I understand, these ruins are (or the site is) originally Greek, and this was a temple to Apollo, the Greek God of light and the sun, truth and prophecy, healing, plague, music, poetry, and the son of Zeus and brother of Artemis (is that all?). According to some research, there is also evidence of ancient baths, other temples, and villas here. Most of it is blocked off due to falling bricks and for protection against vandals, but what is visible is incredible and similar to the architecture of the Colosseo, in Rome. It's fascinating, and fun to know that everywhere around us, tucked away, are similar sites.
There are stories about this place. Its Greek name, Aornos, means “without birds,”
and according to an old legend no bird could fly across it and live
because of its poisonous sulfurous gases. This lake used to be surrounded by forest, and the poet Virgil described it as the entrance to hell (or Hades). The Carthaginian general Hannibal made a pilgrimage to
it in 214 BC. In 37 BC Agrippa, the Roman statesman, cut down the forest (now replaced by the vineyards I mentioned above) and converted the lake
into a naval harbor via a tunnel cut through the hillside and connected to the ancient port of Cumae. In times of war, this ancient tunnel and several others were used as shelters for the local people. The nonna of my neighbor took shelter here during WWI (I'm assuming). They're blocked off now, obviously, but are a valuable resource in times of need and there are at least three of them that we passed.
European Shag
Anyway, just a short glimpse into a local peaceful spot. The lake's circumference is approximately 2 km, perfect for a short walk on a nice afternoon or a bike ride. I'll definitely be coming back here soon and will bring bread and crackers for my new buddies:
Domesticated Greylag Goose (female)
I haven't the slightest idea what this little gal is. May not be a native species.
Forward-thinkers who brought some snacks with them!
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